Have you checked that the option in the Appearance dialog of the attribute table view doesn't have the option 'Display coded value domain and subtype descriptions' unchecked?
Also, you won't be able to work with the domains if the dataset is open in ArcMap - and it won't tell you that is why. It just won't give you the option.
Here is something I put together that works on the simple gdb's I have on hand. I don't know how it might or might not handle sub-types with multiple domains (see Brent's comment).
Usage:
python export_gdb_domains.py [input geodatabase]
It exports the tables to the same gdb it's getting the domains from. It will fail if the table(s) exist already.
''' Export all coded value domains in a geodatabase to tables in that gdb '''
import os, sys
import arcpy
gdb = sys.argv[0]
desc = arcpy.Describe(gdb)
domains = desc.domains
for domain in domains:
print 'Exporting %s CV to table in %s' % (domain, gdb)
table = os.path.join(gdb, domain)
arcpy.DomainToTable_management(gdb, domain, table,
'field','descript', '#')
Updated version on github at https://github.com/envygeo/arcplus/blob/master/ArcToolbox/Scripts/export_gdb_domains.py. Optionally writes to XLS and overwrites existing tables.
Resources:
History
I initially tried to use an output directory and .csv files for the results instead, but kept getting "ERROR 000142: Field name in dBASE table cannot be longer than 10 characters". It seems to always interpret the path as part of the table name (c.f. table = line) {shrug}.
[Later]: @dgj32784 found the cause, 'description' at 11 characters is too long.
Best Answer
I am not aware of a way to disable a coded value domain in the Attribute window used for editing and there is an existing ArcGIS Idea to do what you are asking so I think this reinforces that it is not currently possible:
However, if you are using a File Geodatabase, which I will assume because you do not specify otherwise, then you can effectively disable a domain by removing it from the field temporarily:
The domain still exists in the file geodatabase. You have just dissociated it temporarily from the particular field for which you want to see codes rather than descriptions. It can be easily re-associated using the same steps.